Polonnaruwa

The second great capital. Better preserved than Anuradhapura, and understood differently.

Polonnaruwa became the new capital of the Sinhalese kingdom in the 10th century. Its golden age under King Parakramabahu I (1153--1186 CE) produced structures that survive in better condition than almost anything at Anuradhapura.

Experiences at this stop

• Gal Vihara --- the 12th century rock sculptures

Four figures --- a seated Buddha, a colossal standing Buddha (15 metres), a reclining Buddha at the moment of Parinirvana, and a smaller seated figure --- cut from a single granite face.

• Cycling the ruins

Hire bicycles from the entrance and navigate the ancient city at your own pace. The distances between structures are 500 metres to 2 kilometres --- cycling through the jungle is the correct way to understand it.

• Parakrama Samudra reservoir

The sea of Parakrama covers 2,500 hectares and was the engineering centrepiece of the Polonnaruwa kingdom. Walking its embankment at dusk, with the ancient ruins silhouetted behind.